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kentusSVK •
15. 4. 2012 o 15:32
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nazdar, budem mať nový bike a chcel by som sa naučiť odvzdušnovať brzdy + výmenu oleja 
neviete my poradiť podla čoho a kde kúpiť nejakú lacnú odvzdušnovaciu sadu. A aký minerálny olej ide do brzd ?
a je to tak že na kazdé brzdy je potrebná in odvzdušnovacia sada ?
prípadne sú typy kvapaliny na zimu a teplo atd?
a ohladom odvzdušnenia nepoznáte nejaké cz/sk video s popisom ako nato ? alebo my neviete poradiť vy osobne ?
diky
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neviete my poradiť podla čoho a kde kúpiť nejakú lacnú odvzdušnovaciu sadu. A aký minerálny olej ide do brzd ?
a je to tak že na kazdé brzdy je potrebná in odvzdušnovacia sada ?
prípadne sú typy kvapaliny na zimu a teplo atd?
a ohladom odvzdušnenia nepoznáte nejaké cz/sk video s popisom ako nato ? alebo my neviete poradiť vy osobne ?
diky
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posledný komentár: 14. 9. 2025 o 8:53
posledný komentár: 17. 8. 2025 o 12:31
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A treba aj tu nadobku?Či odmontovat ten krit a dolievat?
A co tie AVIDY,treba tu drahu sadu,ci bude stacit aj toto?
http://sadesport.sk/home/3527-bleed-kit-plniaca-sada-avid-hayes.html
Popripade kde je mozne zohnat tie koncovky?
Caute.Dostal som odvzdušňovaciu sadu Tektro disc brakes,no mam brzdy Shimano BL-M355 stane sa niečo keď tam dám olej z tej sady? Pýtam sa preto lebo som čítal že sa môže niečo stáť s tesneniami keď sa tam da zlý olej apod.
LINK- http://jeep-mt.rajce.idnes.cz/Brzdy#20151125_194034.jpg
Majú olej a nie brzdovú kvapalinu, takže by to malo byť ok
Sorry za moju nechápavosť
EDIT: Už som si všimol
V kazdom pripade, su to take lacne polozky, ze mozes zobrat z kazdej na vyskusanie.
mam jeden mensi problem s odvzdusnenim hydraulickych brzd Magura MT7. Brzdy uplne nove, skratene hadicky, odvzdusnene, ale.. najskor mali packy dlhy chod (aj po nastaveni), tak som odvzdusnoval znova.
Predna brzda parada, zadna nebrzdi vobec. Po odvzdusneni mala packa kratky chod, no druhe stlacenie - packa isla viac, tretie stlacenie - zasa vacsi chod a na stvrte som ju dal az po rajdy a brzdny ucinok nulovy.
Tak som odvzdusnoval znova, pri tom som si vsimol, ze lanko pri packe je trocha oslzene od oleja. Tak som hadicku skratil, dal novu ihlu, olivu, zatiahol, odvzdusnil a zasa to iste - prve stlacenie super, druhe packa isla viac a tretie uz bola na rajdoch a zasa nebrzdi.
Kde by mohol byt problem?
Let’s get started: basically this set up is for the rear brake bleed, but also same method applies to the front.
1. First, put the bike in the bike stand
2. Second, take the rear brake lever, line and caliper assemble completely off the bike working on the rear brakes everything off
3. Third, now that the bike is in the stand with the rear brake off, tilt the bike in the stand with the front fork up in the air at a 45 degree angle, next rotate the handle bar and front wheel 180 degrees, so that the brake lever when mounted back on the handle bar will be pointing towards the rear of bike This helps with two things here keeps the front wheel from flopping side to side, second, will take most of the bend out of the brake line, less trapped air.
4. Prepare caliper for bleeding with transport device. Per Magura
5. Fully retract caliper pistons, by pushing them back in with transport device
6. Remove the brake pads to avoid contaminating them with oil. IMPORTANT NEW STEP I had encountered a problem while removing the brake reservoir handle bar clamps, when the brakes were first removed from the new Magura Box, while removing the clamps, as I had loosed the T25 nuts, the studs would start to back out of the carbon body, I think this may be why some people including myself had an ongoing spongy lever, you may not know this, the reservoir cap is actually the red plastic between the reservoir and handle bar, the studs hold the reservoir cap on, a loose stud would let air in the system, …So with that said, put some electrical tape on the studs that hold the bar clamps and tighten with some pliers, lightly not to damage the threads, remove tape. This is a must do step.
7. Now mount the rear brake lever back on the handle bar with the rear brake lever facing the rear brake mount, Tilt the rear lever master assemble at the 15 degree angle and tighten lightly, install the transport block between the caliper pistons and secure, rubber band or electrical tape, let the line and rear brake caliper hang down straight to the floor, keeping the caliper off the floor, with no bends in the brake line, you may have to raise the bike in the stand, had my stand all the up, so the brake line would hang with no bends.
8. Now fill a syringe with Magura brake fluid for the rear brake caliper, hold the caliper to the height of the rear brake lever on the handle bar or just slightly above, open the caliper bleed screw, no fluid should leak out, attach the syringe, and tighten with a 8mm wrench.
9. Open the T25 air bleed screw on the handle bar brake reservoir, install the second syringe, the second syringe is being used as a open reservoir with the plunger out of the syringe, press syringe tip firmly into reservoir, but don’t overdo it, Pour about 5ml of Magura brake fluid into syringe.
10. Now let’s get this bleeding started, now keeping the brake line straight down with the caliper near the floor, push the fluid into the system, A firm somewhat of a fast push, leave about 5ml of fluid in bottom syringe, don’t push it all out, this avoids putting any air back into the system with several push and pulls.
11. Now with the brake line straight down with the caliper near the floor, pull the fluid back into the syringe, kind of a fast pull at first, this will create a pocket of vacuum looks like an air space, then let up some, but still pulling. This will pull the air out of the line. Then repeat the push and pulls can’t give you an exact number of push/pull, for me it was about 10 push pulls. I would wait a few minutes between push/pulls, I could see micro bubbles still heading to the top...I had to push kind of fast and hard to get the air bubbles to move out, could hear them bubble out the top syringe reservoir.
12. Now let’s get this bleed buttoned back up. I ‘m going to do this back A$$ Backwards according Magura instructions, but you will have the best d*m braking and lever feel on the planet what I had noticed in the Magura basic bleed kit bleeding procedure with the two syringes, As I pulled the fluid back into the lower brake caliper syringe, the pulling of the syringe would also retract the caliper pistons away from the transport device, sometimes sticking in the caliper, creating a gap… resulting in more lever travel..How to fix this gap, sticky caliper piston, shorten excessive lever travel, and have the best d*m braking and lever travel in the world, next step.
13. First, place about 5ml of Magura blood in the top reservoir; second, make sure each caliper piston moves freely in and out of the brake caliper. Here is how: remove the transport device, and place a 5/16 Allen wrench parallel (5/16 ~ .3125 now being used as the desired master block) between the caliper pistons while holding the Allen wrench at one end with your index finger and the other end of the Allen wrench with your pinky finger, pulling or holding one caliper piston flush against the caliper with the 5/16 Allen. Now push Magura blood from the bottom brake caliper syringe into the brake system, one piston held tight against the caliper with the Allen wrench the other caliper piston will move out of the caliper against the other side of the Allen wrench when the fluid is pushed in the system from the bottom caliper with a syringe, great...with one piston halfway out and one piston now flush to the brake caliper, time to clean the piston that is hallway out with a Q tip and with some Magura oil, remove any grime or dirt off the caliper piston O.D. And lubricate around the piston O.D. with some Magura oil. Now push the caliper piston that is halfway out back into the caliper with the Allen wrench, so that the Allen wrench and caliper piston is flush to the caliper, Now do the same procedure to the other caliper piston, Hold the cleaned caliper piston flush against the caliper with the 5/16 Allen wrench, Push More fluid into the system from the lower brake caliper syringe, so that the other side caliper piston moves out, clean and lubricate....if a sticky caliper piston persist, may half to do the Allen side to side procedure more than once. IMPORTANT, we now want the 5/16 Allen wrench and caliper pistons balanced, push the last cleaned piston back in the caliper some, and push more fluid into the brake system to move the other piston out against the Allen wrench.
14. With 5/16 Allen wrench between the caliper pistons and centered between them, remove the 5/16 Allen, raise the rear brake caliper to the height of the handle bar rear brake lever, or just slightly above, while holding at the handle bar height, remove caliper syringe, put in bleed screw, tighten. Almost done Next Step.
15. Now the top syringe reservoir may have a large amount of brake fluid in it, from pushing out the pistons that’s ok. Since the bottom caliper is already buttoned up, no fluid can leave the system, remove the top, syringe, while placing your finger on the syringe tip, holding any fluid from spilling and replace the plastic bleed plug. Place any remaining fluid in container.
16. Great …now remove entire brake lever assembly, and clean with soap and water, a soapy paper towel will work to remove any brake fluid from the brake lever, piston caliper, and then rinse.
17. With everything clean and buttoned up, reinstall the brake pads, if pads are a little tight, can push back the brake pads with the thinnest part of the transport device…. This is what we want, only the thickness of the thinnest part of the transport should fit between the now installed brake pads, this is about .084 thousands of an inch, now with the thinnest part of the transport device installed and secured, go ahead and squeeze, pump the lever, several times, should be a rock solid lever, with a lot less lever travel per Magura instructions. Note: when installing the brake caliper and now installed pads over the rotor, everything should look centered, brake pad ears, same amount on each side, caliper piston contact against brake pads, same amount, each caliper piston should be moved out of caliper housing slightly with the new bleed procedure, with the brake lever at a reseting positon, no lever engagement. Each brake pad ear should have a equal small amount of movement (wiggle), on each side on the brake caliper guide pin when the brake lever is squeezed, indicating the caliper pistons have free movement and working correctly.
18. Reinstall brake assembly onto bike… Have an Awesome Day
Moj problem je ze pri odvzdusneni brzd, tak kym mam vlozeny ten zlty blok, tak packa brzdy je pekne tvrda. Akonahle vyberiem blok, a vlozim tam platnicky(cisto nove) tak je brzda zvädnuta a spongiovita. Jedna sa o deore xt. Neviete ako to vyriesit?